This week we are going to the land of Conchita Wurst & hard to pronounce grapes: Austria! We try two very distinctive Grüner Vetliner from both Groiss and Goettwein, then a divine red blend from biodynamic star Moric and finish with Türks’ lip smacking Zweigelt. Zum Wohl!
Groiss Grüner Vetliner ‘Sauberg Tradition’ 2017
Grüner Vetliner can also produce complex wine with oak influence and ageing capability. After years between harvest in various wineries (including renown Domane Wachau) and studies, Ingrid Groiss took over as head winemaker in the family estate. She makes fantastic wines and has a true passion for the versatility offered by Grüner Vetliner.
The Sauberg Tradition is a superb, complex and refined example. On the nose it offers generous and inviting white tropical fruits, honey blossoms, pears, slight peaches and delicate orange zests. The palate is complex, elegant with a firm texture, balanced acidity and flavours of yellow fruits (pears, apples, quinces). Its finish is finely spicy (baking spices, white pepper).
A gorgeous wine to savour by itself, before a Viennese Apfelstrudel. (Gretchen Wieners approved)
Stift Goettweig ‘Messwein’ Grüner Vetliner 2018
High in the hills across the Danube River, between Krems and Durnstein, stands one of Austria’s most beautiful buildings.
A breathtaking monastery home to winemaking activity since 1094, with stellar vineyard holdings and local legend Fritz Miesbauer (Domane Wachau, Stadt Krems) behind the vinous affairs. Following nature-friendly viticulture practices and obeying the ‘Reinheitsgebot’ (purity law) from the Church, the Messwein cannot be produced without the permission of the bishop. The wine has to be natural and unaltered. The result is a moreish dry, light, juicy and fresh example of Grüner Vetliner, with subtle notes of green pear, red apples, rosewood and lemon zests.
Moric ‘Hausmarke Rot’ 2016
If you want to learn more about Austrian wines, have a look at the brilliant videos by Ed Merrison (Dux WSET DIP) – to consume without moderation. Roland Velich at Moric (pronounced Moritz) is an obsessive genius. He believed in a vineyard, abandoned by many, and through hard work, drastic sorting, biodynamic practices and primitive winemaking techniques, made something truly unique.
“Roland Velich makes the best Blaufränkisch on the planet. Full Stop”Alder Yarrow – Jancis Robinson Purple Pages
“Moric, is a star in this world”Eric Asimov – New York Times wine correspondent
The Hausmarke Rot is a blend of Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, Merlot and Pinot Noir. Generous fresh bramble fruits, dried flowers, sweet & sour cherries and, earthy spices; this wine has much complexity and depth. Ripe juicy fruit, crunchy acidity and excellent tannins gives this wine a unique palate dynamic. Perfect with a duck / berries dish.
Cherries, smoke and peat, spice, dried flowers. Medium-bodied, fleshy with fine silty tannin, smoky cherry and raspberry flavour, a gentle sourness and tang to the acidity, and a ripe finish of fine length. Intellectual fun times here, and I’d say that’s more PC than suggesting ‘sexy librarian’. Well, anyway, stamp my card.92 points – Gary Walsh -The Wine Front
Weingut Türk Blauer “Im großen Berg” Zweigelt 2018
A winery with 300 years of tradition and experience, carried through the various generations since the 18th century, makes family winery Weingut Türk quite a must try!
Even though their passion is Kremstaler Grüner Vetliner, we were also really impressed by Weingut Türk’s Blauer “Im großen Berg” Zweigelt. If the name of this varietal doesn’t roll out the tong the wine certainly will.
Vibrant berries on the nose and palate – blackberries, sour cherries, raspberries – carried by velvety, smooth and delicate tannins. I (Val) found almost hints of cherry cola and cinnamon bark! Make sure to open a couple of hours prior drinking and/or decanting.
Sounds köstlich (delicious)?
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